How to Lay a Gravel Path in Your Garden

Putting in a gravel path can be a cost-effective way of providing access to your garden or yard while maintaining a natural look. It’s a relatively easy landscaping project that you and your family can undertake over a weekend and requires little maintenance afterward. However, there is still some prep work involved, which we will cover step by step in this article.

Why Gravel?

In addition to its cost-effectiveness when compared with alternatives such as paver stones, gravel’s unique texture, and colour give it an organic look that will never go out of fashion. It is also easier to make an irregularly shaped garden path out of gravel than bricks, as cutting would be required. Another benefit is that it’s great for colder climates like in Saskatchewan, where the ground goes through many freeze-thaw cycles yearly, which could potentially make paver stones uneven. The best part is that it’s an easy DIY project that does not require a lot of tools, precision, or experience.

Before You Start

1. Call Before You Dig

Even though you won’t be excavating very deep into the ground, it’s still best to call before you dig. Request underground utility locates through Sask 1st Call. Submit at least several business days ahead and wait for clearance before any excavation.

2. Plan Drainage and Slope

Aim the path slightly away from buildings and low spots. Target 1 to 2 percent slope. If you want wheelchair or stroller friendly access, keep cross‑slope at 2 percent or less and running slope at 5 percent or less.

3. Choose the Gravel Mix

For the base layer, use a road base such as type 32-33. Compact in thin lifts to 3 to 4 inches total. It locks up and makes a solid, even foundation. As for the surface layer, you have several options, each with its pros and cons.

Material	When to Choose	Notes
Crusher Dust	Firm, low‑maintenance walking surface; most wheel friendly.	Packs tight and smooth. Place 1½ to 2 inches loose, and compact.
Crushed Rock	Clean, “crunchy” look with good drainage.	Interlocks better than pea gravel but does not compact solid. Choose smaller stone for walking comfort. Use 1½ to 2 inches.
Pea Gravel	Soft underfoot, decorative paths.	Comfortable but rolls and migrates; use 2 to 2½ inches; not ideal for wheels such as lawn mowers and wheelbarrows.

You can use our landscape calculator to calculate how much material to order. Make sure you account for compaction and order 5 to 10% more depending on the material.

Tools and Materials

Materials

• Landscape marking paint or string line and stakes
• Non-woven geotextile fabric for soil‑base separation
• Optional landscape fabric above the base for extra weed suppression
• Base layer material
• Surface layer material
• Edging: steel, aluminium, composite, or pressure‑treated timber
• Spikes or anchors for edging

Tools

• Spade and square shovel
• Rake and landscape rake
• Wheelbarrow and buckets
• Plate compactor (rental) and a hand tamper for tight corners
• Level, straightedge, and tape measure
• Garden hose with spray nozzle for light moisture when compacting

Layout and Excavation

1. Lay out the path using paint or a taut string. For curves, use a garden hose as a guide.
2. Set finished height so the path sits slightly below surrounding turf or mulch to keep edges tidy.
3. Excavate 5 to 6 inches of soil along the route, deeper if the subgrade is soft until you reach firm ground. Remove roots and organic material.
4. Rough grade for slope now. Check that water will not drain toward your foundation, patios, or neighbour.

Tip: Stockpile clean topsoil separately if you plan to reuse it elsewhere.

Subgrade Preparation and Fabric

1. Shape and firm the subgrade. Knock down high spots and fill low areas. Lightly compact the native soil with the plate compactor.
2. Install geotextile. Place non‑woven geotextile directly on the prepared subgrade to keep soil and base separate and help drainage. Overlap seams by at least 12 inches. If weed suppression above the base is your top priority, you can add a layer of landscape fabric between the compacted base and the surface layer as well.

Base Installation

1. Add base in thin lifts. Spread 1½ to 2 inches of base material, moisten lightly if dusty, then compact with the plate compactor until it stops deflecting. Repeat for a total compacted base thickness of 3 to 4 inches.
2. Maintain your slope. Use a level on a straightedge, or measure drop with string lines. Re‑rake and re‑compact as needed.

Compaction rule of thumb: Do not place more than 2 inches loose per lift. Thin layers compact stronger and smoother.

Edging

Install edging before the surface layer so it locks the aggregate in place.

• Set metal or composite edging either flush with the finished gravel for wheel access, or raised ⅜ to ½ inch above the gravel if you want a subtle border.
• Anchor per manufacturer instructions, typically 12 to 24 inches on centre. Check for kinks along curves.

Surface Layer

Crusher Dust

1. Spread 1½ to 2 inches loose. Rake smooth, following the base slope.
2. Lightly mist and compact until tight. Aim for about 1¼ to 1½ inches compacted.
3. Top up any lows and re‑compact.

Crushed Rock

1. Lay 1½ to 2 inches evenly.
2. Do not over‑compact. A light pass to settle is fine. The goal is interlock, not a sealed surface.
3. Check edging is solid to contain the stone; rake to finish.

Pea Gravel

1. Place 2 to 2½ inches and spread evenly.
2. Skip heavy compaction. A light pass or hand tamp along edges is enough to settle.
3. Expect periodic raking to level footprints and wheel tracks.

Finishing Touches

• Transitions: Where the path meets patios or steps, keep heights flush to avoid trip points.
• Stepping stones: Set stones on the compacted base so their tops finish flush with the gravel after compaction.
• Clean up: Broom borders, water lightly to settle dust, and run one last pass with the compactor if needed.

Maintenance

• Weeds: Fabric blocks soil migration from below, but windblown seeds will sprout in surface dust. Hand pull or spot‑treat as needed.
• Top‑ups: Add a thin layer of the surface layer material every year or two in high traffic areas, then compact.
• Raking: After winter or heavy storms, rake ridges and fill shallow hollows.

Summary

A gravel path can be a great addition to your garden, bringing a new dimension to the space and improving its overall look. Most importantly, it does not break the bank or your back compared to other alternatives. When finished, you’ll have relatively low maintenance access to your garden while creating an attractive feature.